Restaurants
Michelin stars, grand dining rooms and the tables worth booking ahead. Lisbon first.
JNcQUOI Avenida, for those who still dress for dinner
A 1924 theatre by Raul Lino, frescoes almost a century old, a life size velociraptor and the best people watching on Avenida da Liberdade. I am a member of the JNcQUOI Club, so here is my honest, biased view.
Henrique Sá Pessoa, for those who know when to start again
He closed Alma twice, and twice came back stronger. In 2026 the chef put his own name on the door, near Amoreiras, and kept both Michelin stars. This is the restaurant I would choose to understand modern Lisbon.
Belcanto, for those who believe cooking is a kind of fado
Two Michelin stars, a square where Pessoa was born, an opera house across the street and a napkin shaped like a sleeve. Why Belcanto is still the table I give to anyone who asks me where to eat in Lisbon.
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